Viana do Castelo – Portugal

The Legacy behind Every Gesture — Romaria d’Agonia

This exhibition aims to carry on tradition, honour those who came before, and prepare those to come — this is The Legacy behind Every Gesture – Romaria d’Agonia.

The people, the memories, the tradition, the joy, and the love with which the Romaria de Nossa Senhora d’Agonia is celebrated each year are proof of a belief in a future for Viana do Castelo that cannot be separated from its historical and cultural past.

This year, we want you to feel every gesture of the Romaria d’Agonia — prepared with soul, lived with faith, and passed on with love. It is a legacy that spans generations — strong, gentle, and one we wish to keep eternal, like memory itself.

It is the people of Viana, and those who fall in love with it, who surrender their hearts to tradition, because the Romaria lives on in those who carry it on..

This exhibition, The Legacy behind Every Gesture – Romaria d’Agonia, reminds us of who we are, where we come from… and what we carry in our hearts when We Are All Romaria.

Bandas — 1867

The earliest record of a music band at the Romaria de Senhora d’Agonia dates back to 1867. Due to its scale and significance, it is an important stage for bands to showcase their best musicians and repertoire. In the past, bands would fill the city with music from the bandstands. Today, philharmonic bands participate in all aspects of the Romaria.

Navy’s Philarmonic Band – 1955
Philarmonic Band at the Republic Square – 1962
Philarmonic Band at the Historical and Ethnographic Parade – 2004
Philarmonic Band at the “Let’s go to the Festival” parade – 2015

And maybe you’ll hear the song you already know, played by the tiny fingers of someone just starting out. And in that very moment, you’ll smile, because everything restarts there: We shall go to Viana

 

Procissão Solene — 1888

The majestic Procissão Solene (Solemn Procession), a moment of deep devotion and respect, was first held in 1888. Rhythmic tapping of staffs marking the pace of the men and women carrying the sacred floats echoes in the distance. Images of Our Lady of the Seas, Our Lady of the Assumption, Our Lady of Monserrate, Saint Bartholomew of the Martyrs, Saint Peter, and Our Lord of the Afflicted depart from the Church of São Domingos and meet the floats of Saint Roch and Our Lady of the Last Sorrow, waiting at the sanctuary. Through the faith and effort of the men and women carrying them on their shoulders, the floats move through the streets accompanied by more than a hundred performers enacting various biblical scenes.

Our Lady of the Last Sorrow processional float (VianaFestas archive) – 1951
Our Lord of the Afflicted (VianaFestas archive) – 1951
Angels and Our Lady of the Seas processional float (VianaFestas archive) – 1953
Our Lord of the Afflicted (Severino Costa - AMVC) – 1968

Each tap of the staff, each flower thrown, each gesture of the Solemn Procession is the faith of the past walking in the present.

Serenata — 1889

In 1889, the Romaria d’Agonia already included fireworks in its religious celebrations and festivities. It is Viana do Castelo’s breathtaking natural setting, surrounded by the Lima River, which makes the fireworks displays of the Serenata (Serenade) and the cascade at the Eiffel Bridge truly unique.

Manuel Gonçalves da Silva & Filhos Pyrotechnics postcard – 1912
Serenade Poster – 1926
Serenade (cascade detaill) – 1950
Serenade – 1956
Serenade – 1964
Serenade – 1953

When the first firework of the Serenata rises, let the longing and the memories alive within you, in every Romaria d’Agonia, rise too.

Gigantones e Cabeçudos — 1893

The Gigantones and Cabeçudos made their debut at the Romaria da Senhora d’Agonia in Viana do Castelo, in 1893. This tradition was reintroduced from Galicia, in Spain, and is still one of its main attractions. The giant figures parade through the streets to the beat of drums and snare drums played by the Zés P’reiras, much to the delight of children and adults.

Giant Figures at the Queen Square – 1896
Giant Figures at the Ethnographic Parade – 1939
Giant Figures at the Traditional Costume Show – 1955
Giant Figures at the Romaria – 1955
Giant Figures and Zés P’reiras at the Republic Square – Mid 20th Cent.

Close your eyes when you hear the beat of the drums… When you dance, dance for those who were part of our Romaria… this is love!

Parada Agrícola / Cortejo Histórico e Etnográfico — 1908

The Historical and Ethnographic Parade, originally called the “Agricultural Parade”, was held for the first time in 1908. This is the moment when the parishes showcase their traditions to the city. Truly a living museum, it involves thousands of participants and dozens of decorative floats. They are true works of art that connect history and ethnography and keep Viana’s traditions alive.

Lavradeira and ethnographic parade float from Vila Mou (H. Viana archive) – c. 1940
Historical figures – 1953
Viana do Castelo’s ethnographic parade float – 1956
Ethnographic parade float “Maize, Gold from the fields” – 1962
Ethnographic parade float from Lanheses – 1962

When you breathe life into the traditions and stories you proudly share today, remember those who lived them first and left this legacy that makes us unique.

Festa do Traje — 1919

Dating back to 1919, the Festa do Traje (Traditional Costume Show), was created to encourage the women of Viana to take pride in traditional attire and to highlight the costumes of the parishes of Viana do Castelo. Today, in one space, the art of wearing and adorning with gold is celebrated while key ethnographic and folkloric traditions of Viana are explained.

Group from Areosa (António Viana archive) – 1919
Traditional Costume Show at the Campo do Castelo (Maria Emília Vasconcelos collection) – 1927
Mordoma and Bride’s costumes (H. Viana archive) - 1941
Group from Afife (H. Viana archive) – 1949
Seaweed Gatherers from Castelo do Neiva (VianaFestas archive) – 1951
Traditional Costume Show overall view (VianaFestas archive) – 1952

When you preserve a tradition, remember that each and every detail holds a memory — pass it on.

Desfile da Mordomia — 1968

Inspired by the mordomias of the villages of Viana do Castelo and symbolizing a formal greeting to official entities, the Desfile da Mordomia (Mordomia Parade) first walked the city streets in 1968. Today, a thousand women dress in full traditional costume and gold, honouring every detail passed down from previous generations, keeping the tradition of parading with chieira (pride) alive.

Lavradeiras with processional floats decorations (Severino Costa - AMVC) – 1968
Mordomas from Santa Marta de Portuzelo (Severino Costa - AMVC) – 1968
Group of Lavradeiras (Severino Costa - AMVC) – 1970
Mordomia Parade flyer – 1975
Bride’s costumes (Severino Costa - AMVC) – 1978
Mordoma and Bride’s costumes (Gualberto Boa Morte - AMVC) – 1979

And when you wear the traditional costume, you’ll feel our history. It’s the voice of your grandmother, your mother, and even before you knew it… it was already a part of you.

Noite dos Tapetes — 1968

Since 1968, the people of Ribeira (Fishermen’s Quarter) gather on the 19th of August of each year and work tirelessly and faithfully into the dawn of the 20th to adorn their streets. This is known as Noite dos Tapetes (Tapestry Night). Initially created using fishing nets, flowers, and dyed sawdust, these (now) salt tapestries have since become true works of art, crafted by young and old alike. Meanwhile, at the docks, fishermen decorate their boats with floral arrangements and fishing gear, preparing to carry the sacred floats out to sea on the next day.

Fishermen’s Quarter decorated for Our Lady of Fátima (Manuel Fontes) – 1962
Marching Band and Our Lady of the Seas processional float (Manuel Fontes)– 1970
Marching Band at the Fishermen’s Quarter (Manuel Fontes) – 1970
Our Lady of the Last Sorrow processional float (Manuel Fontes) – 1970
Góis Pinto street decorations (Severino Costa - AMVC) – 1970

During the Romaria, you will see children decorating the streets with salt, smiles amongst friends. You will feel the thoughtfulness of those who do with their own hands.

Procissão ao Mar — 1968

Held on August 20th since 1968, the Procissão ao Mar (Procession to the Sea) is one of the Romaria’s most iconic moments. It began after the arrival of the image of Our Lady of Fátima in Viana do Castelo. In total silence and devotion, more than a hundred adorned boats carry the sacred floats out to sea, “blessing” the river and the sea. Upon their return, the procession walks the streets of the Ribeira, which is beautifully adorned with salt tapestries created the night before, to receive Our Lady. This is the most important day of the year for Ribeira’s fishermen.

Our Lady of Fátima at the Fishermen’s Quarter (Manuel Fontes) – 1962
Our Lady of Fátima at the Fishermen’s Quarter (Manuel Fontes) – 1962
Our Lady of Fátima (Manuel Fontes) – 1962
Boat with Our Lady of the Last Sorrow processional float (Manuel Fontes) – 1970
Decorated boats with processional floats (Severino Costa - AMVC) – 1971
Overall view from the Procession to the Sea (Severino Costa - AMVC) – 1971

Your faith needs no explanation — feel it, live it, and pass it on, as a promise fulfilled throughout generations.

Vamos para o Festival — anos 90

Created in the 1990s, Vamos para o Festival (Let’s go to the Festival) was an event based on the parade of folklore groups that took part in the Traditional Costume Show in 1979. That year, after gathering in Largo da Estação, the groups paraded down the avenue towards the Abrunhosa Palace, on Papanata. In this way, the crowds gather, waiting for the folklore groups as they head to the festivals. Year in and year out, this parade attracts more and more people, drawn to the flavor of the open-air Minho festival, where everyone joins in.

Bride and groom at the “Let’s go to the Festival” parade – 2015
“Let’s go to the Festival” parade – 2015
Zés P’reiras at the “Let’s go to the Festival” parade – 2015
Folklore Festival – 2009
Folklore Festival – 2015

When the Romaria d’Agonia dances within you, remember you are called to continue the steps of those who came before.

The Street Exhibition